jonny-utah-79









jonny-utah-79

When you come across a feel-good thing.

Shows the Silver Award... and that's it.


















  1. Nope, I’m not even sure if the “cool kids” are doing it anymore. For me it’s always been about comfort and setting up for the least amount of strain to get the best sight picture. And…. Lower the optic = less internal elevation adjustment.

  2. Yeah i figured that. I'm actually going to take this scope back for a one with a 44mm objective because this is too close for comfort, got a kick out of it though.

  3. Mount it wherever it’s comfortable for you, just remember to keep enough clearance for a sunshade and flip caps if you plan on using them. I try to mount my optics as high as possible while still being able to maintain a 100 yard zero.

  4. Yeah, it's stupid. Did you have any trouble with the Magpul stock?

  5. No trouble at all, it was a 1-bolt install, everything lined up perfect and it’s a quality stock. Clearance was a little tight and I had to use the Allen Wrench provided in the box. I actually struggled more with the forend removal and install of the stream light Racker. I should have just purchased the damn castle nut removal tool.

  6. Unfortunately…yes. The engraving needs to match the paperwork and whatever city and state is on the stamp. At least it’s not as bad as all of the poor fuckers that got a Number 8 tattooed on them prior to Dale Earnhardt JR changing his number to 88🤣.

  7. No, that wasn’t a joke. I actually have a jackass friend with a big ass Jr / #8 tattoo on his shoulder that doesn’t have room for another 8 due to the placement & design without it looking like a little kid writing “Happy Birthday” on a card, starting with a BIG ASS H, BIG ASS A BIG ASS P and then….running out of room. Just making light of the shitty predicament that you are in and the colossal fuck up that you are now sharing with the world. Unfortunately …you fucked up and counted your chickens before they hatched. Good luck with the fix, hope the new city & state has a remarkably similar name as the last one.

  8. Change the flasher / relay under your dash, it’s going to be on either side underneath your steering wheel, if this doesn’t fix the problem, find a used switch (multi function/combination switch) off eBay or from a wrecking yard. Good luck!

  9. With the notches on the mount, a small spanner wrench should work just fine. I’m surprised that they didn’t include anything with the purchase? I have multiple SiCo cans that have all come with a tool kit in the box, I recently got a Rugged Obsidian & DeadAir Mask and was blown away that they didn’t provide anything in the box for install and removal. Funny enough…that Obsidian is also the one that we see on here with customers complaining of end cap and baffle strikes every couple of days. I got these at lows last week, hope it helps.

  10. I’d use the “foot wedge” to set up a less obstructed shot.

  11. Hell ya! Excellent choice. The mask is actually one of my favorite cans. My wife still gives me shit and says that I was a little to excited for the .22 set up that I completed this past winter. It’s damn near pellet gun quiet.

  12. You’ll have to wait a lot longer to try out hearing aids because you’re going to greatly minimize permanent hearing loss by shooting suppressed.

  13. You ain’t kidding, a whole bunch of hurry up and wait.

  14. Biggest Con to .408 CT and .375 CT is not being able to find ammo. I don’t mean “expensive”, I mean the physical supply of bullets & casings is so restricted that you really need to drop a few thousand dollars on ensuring you have reloading supplies for the rest of all time.

  15. Very good point. I was able to stock up on everything while waiting for my build to be completed but finding everything needed was an absolute pain in the dick. Peterson Brass took me over 9 months to get new, Cutting edge Bullets are hit and miss, I stock up whenever they are in stock. Powder is a little easier to find but at 50 rounds (per pound) it sure as shit doesn’t go very far.

  16. Are you still using cutting edge bullets? Those were what I was going to use but I didn’t know they were hit and miss

  17. Yes, the Cutting Edge 400 Gr Lazers are the best that I’ve found, they just seem to be extremely hard to find and are constantly on back order. If your in UT you can also check out Shoot Long down in Highland. He sometimes has brass and bullets in stock and he’s the one that I got my AB .375 dies from.

  18. I second this approach! It’s never really worked but…it makes me feel better about the situation. The louder the better!

  19. https://www.reddit.com/r/NFA/comments/xisf94/psa_no_more_posts_showing_nfa_day_count_timers/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf

  20. I’m in the same boat with a 7/18 Eform:1 submittal. Seeing all these approvals submitted after mine is a little infuriating but…I take the same stance as I do when eating out at restaurant when they fuck up my order. It’s got to be pretty bad for me to speak up, bitch and send it back with the “small chance” that someone in the back gets vindictive and fucks with it. I could totally see them having a “special” stack/folder that they throw all of the ones that call and politely ask “why isn’t my fucking stamp approved yet” files in.

  21. Annealing is one of those things that a lot of us do and…a lot of us are possibly doing it incorrectly (especially with propane set ups). I had an Annealeez for a few years, it was an absolute pain in the dick to deal with, I didn’t like the idea of propane/open flame in the house, disliked sweating or freezing my ass of in the garage even more and honestly just could never tell if I was doing it right (even with tempilaq) and never noticed a difference in accuracy (or extended brass life) I’m sure that I could have spent more money and purchased more technical shit to test neck tension and “spring back” etc. I started getting pricier/premium brass over the years (Peterson, Lapua, ADG) and all of it came annealed from the factory. I finally broke down, gave my propane set up away and pick up an AMP. It’s stupid expensive for something that may (or may not) make a damn bit of difference but… it’s also idiot proof and stupid simple to figure out and operate as intended. Me personally…buy once / cry once AMP with AZTEC, you have to sacrifice a piece of brass but it will analyze it and give you the code that you plug in and it’ll do whatever it does to anneal each piece of brass perfect every time.

  22. Just to clarify…Keep in mind that a lot of the shit that we do, steps that we take and fancy shit that we buy for reloading is a lot for luxury and produces marginal results on paper. If you are educated, consistent, precise and safe in what you do, you will be able to produce better than most factory ammo. I explained seating depths for the safety portion of that statement. Just make sure that you aren’t attempting steps that you have heard or read about without having full knowledge of what they mean and how to safely perform the task. You will not get the results that you are hoping for and if you seat a bullet too long…shit can go boom and your going to figure out real quick what signs of pressure truly mean.

  23. Sounds about right with the exception of a few very important steps for reloading. One is to confirm where the lands are on the rifle before playing around with seating depths and the second is recording the speed with a chrono for ballistics info unless you are just plinking with hand gun ammo or only shooting out to 100 yards.

  24. I have run mostly SiCo cans for many years and have never had an issue with any of them on a wide range of hosts. I recently got an obsidian 45 to try out on pistols after hearing all of the hype and only after the 6 month wait did I start to hear about all of the issues that others are having with them in regards to baffle & end cap strikes. I’m hoping that this can be corrected with the right mounting system but…I’ve had it for a few months now and have yet to fire a round through it.

  25. All of my Red Dots & Holographic sight from cheap ass PA’s to Eotech’s and Aimpoints are fuzzy. Only thing that helps is putting a magnifier behind it.

  26. I’d stick with the SiCo ASR mount. I run either the ASR brake or flash hider on all of my rifles and sub guns and the system has performed very well over the years.

  27. Agreed, Large magnums definitely have their place in the ELR world but…I don’t care how tough I think I am, shooting a magnum all day will beat the shit out of anyone. I’m up in Northern UT at around 5k ft elevation with an average DA of 6k to 8k ft.

  28. I shoot both rounds quite frequently out to a 1k and the 6.5 performs just as good if not better than my Lapua simply because the recoil is next to nothing and I’m more comfortable shooting the smaller round with less than half the amount of powder in the case. A simple ballistics calculator can easily solve this debate. My 6.5 load goes sub sonic at 1700 yards and the .338 goes sub at 2100 yards. Both of them shoot like a laser out to 1k.

  29. All depends on those bullets and what seating depth they perform best at. The improved accuracy and performance of hand loads vs factory ammo is all about tailoring the round for your specific rifle/barrel. Factory ammo is designed to be safe in ALL firearms in that particular caliber meaning that they have to be seated at a standard / shallower depth where your particular rifle and the bullet that you now know the max OAL might perform better if it’s kissing the lands or maybe it likes a little “jump” say 40 thousands off the lands/rifling. Once you find a charge weight that shoots the tightest group and is near the velocity that you are going for you can then start playing around with the seating depth and see if the groups get better or worse. Hope this helps answer your question.

  30. GA Precision Rifles is one of (if not) the best out there. I personally recommend Alamo Precision though. They’ve been around for a while, they have fair pricing, semi quick turnaround time and they build one hell of a rifle.

  31. Mine as well, I had them build my 375 CheyTac earlier this year and couldn’t be happier. Put the 1st 3 shots at 100 yards through the same hole and was sold from that point. They build a damn fine rifle!

  32. Seems a little confusing but it’s extremely simple. Follow the guidelines, if “YOU” purchase a pistol and file with the NFA to convert it to an SBR. “YOU” are now the one creating the “SBR” and are therefore classified as the “Manufacturer” of said SBR. Serial numbers never change on a firearm once created and issued. Doing so would be committing a serious crime. You only have to engrave either your full name if filed individually or trust name if filed as a trust + your city and state. Super easy, I had it done on a firearm yesterday, cost $50 and took a day to get it back.

  33. Slight clarification/correction. You are the "Maker" of the SBR. The "Manufacturer " is the company that made the lower receiver and put the serial number on it.

  34. Shitty!!! Sounds like you’ll either need to wait it out and prey. Or….join the military, about the only expedited forms I’ve seen over the years are either from active duty service members that get orders or the FFL loses their license or closes up shop for whatever reason. Good luck!

  35. I have PCS orders for Dec and they said they wouldn’t do anything, that I needed to pull my forms and resubmit in the state Im moving to. My forms then promptly made their way to the shredder because I shared a few honest thoughts with her. Maybe for deployment orders.. I had no luck with PCS orders though.

  36. That’s some Bull Shit right there!!! You’d think that an expedited form would be the least that they could do for y’all.

  37. Fellow South Paw here, I shoot everything suppressed and I honestly don’t notice much of a difference. Half of my ar’s are a lefty configuration and the other half are RH, my piston’s seem to be less gassy than the DI’s and I’ve tried everything known to man to “help” mitigate the gas problem from adjustable gas blocks to heavier buffer tubes and the raptor/vented charging handles. No incredible change in gas blow back but….they are all tuned now to my liking and shooting them all is way more pleasant than before. I’ll deal with a little gas all day long if I can save what little is left of my hearing.

  38. So seems like adjustable gas block is probably the single most important thing for a southpaw?

  39. I wouldn’t necessarily say that, what’s amazing is how many people just deal with the inherent shitty flaws of the AR platform and never do anything about it. If a rifle is already over gassed new from the factory and someone throws a suppressor on it, it just amplify’s the effect and makes it worse. The beauty of an adjustable gas block is that you can control and adjust exactly how much gas is needed to cycle the bolt properly and then….set it there and leave it. It cycles better, less recoil and less gas / blow back (which is ultimately what you are going for here). I’d go with an adjustable gas block and a heavier buffer. Anything else is just going to cost you a shit ton of money and offer marginal results.

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