fliesenschieber








fliesenschieber

Shows the Silver Award... and that's it.

The treasure at the end of the rainbow. Gives the author 800 Coins to do with as they please.



















  1. Just a note- there is a difference between the Silent Wings 4 High Speed and the Silent Wings 4 Pro-the pro's have much better static pressure for rads: 2.36 on the high speeds vs 3.64 on the Pro's. Make sure you're getting the Pros. Just bought some for my 7950x upgrade, and the only place I found the

  2. Thanks a lot for the input! The pros achieve the higher pressure due to their higher max rpm, other than that (besides the rad-optimizes replacable corner mounts) it should be the identical product.

  3. Many prefer to use the difference between coolant temp and ambinet temp as the control source for fan control. It's more granular and prevents your fan RPM from being affected by changes in ambient temp. Since you have a Quadro it's very easy to set up a virtual sensor in Aquasuite to do this.

  4. That approach I really will never understand. I doesnt make sense to me at all when you think about summer vs winter behaviour.

  5. It's nickel-plated aluminum that you have there. The galvanically less noble aluminum corrodes intensely, that is what we see here, cf.

  6. But if it was well plated, then the water wouldn't touch aluminum and corrode, right?

  7. I wouldn't take that chance. A plating is so thin that it may erode with time. And then the bare aluminum comes to light...

  8. because people rarely think about the top rad emptying or not even filling the first place. someone who knows at least uses a splash pipe to submerge the return line from the rad deep anough to avoid that, but not really possible with a distro. i mean, you could possibly use the top route as a forced "greed overflow" if you wish to, doesnt even matter if you use top or bottom thread, you just have to have a dip below the liquid level to create a barrier.

  9. The pump just feeds water and the air gets trapped in the res... In the end, all the rad's air will be moved out eventually, from what I understand.

  10. air goes to the highest point once the water stops, if you have no dips, traps, overflows or the like the radiator just empties and sucks in air.

  11. I'd think you can just tilt the case during filling, so that the water level rises in the tilted rad. Anyways, you're having a point that needs to be taken into account!

  12. EPDM tubing is most care-free. Use DP Ultra Clear as coolant. Consider an Ultitube Pro with D5 Next pump and an AquaComputer Quadro for fan controls.

  13. The decades-old rule of thumb recommends 120mm2 of rad surface for every 100W of heat to be dissipated.

  14. I hope you are a multi-millionnaire, OP. In that case, your gambling away 300k is fine.

  15. Everybody paid $9. That is $27 paid. The $27 is split into tip ($2) and register ($25). 3*9=27-2=25 there's your dollars :4270:

  16. I don't mind the repeat stuff, there is only so many variations of a water block really. But I do agree that Corsair is really hit or miss, mostly miss IMO, I don't buy any of their stuff except for RAM and PSUs. Fans are a waste of time

  17. I ended up buying Corsair cases for the last >10 years. They are excellent. Currently building in the 7000D and very happy with it.

  18. Yeah some of the cases look good, but it really feels like they hit the mark well, or just fall straight off a cliff. Like I say I'd buy from them, but I'd have to do my research

  19. Maybe I should add that I have 6 LL120 fans, where every single one of them has dead RGB ~3 years after use. From now on, only BeQuiet and Noctua fans for me...

  20. Or is it Dr. Frankenstein's lab PC?! ...the Chernobyl nuclear plant's central control unit?!

  21. OP how long since you last changed coolant?

  22. Probably not more frequently than his "yearly dust removal" ๐Ÿ˜‚

  23. Congrats! You have finally become a true degenerate! 1000D is peak watercooling and peak insanity

  24. 1000D really is madness. At that point, I'd consider MoRa and QDs and a regular-size case...

  25. I think you are going to be pretty surprised at the difference in quality between a lian li and a corsair case. Lian Li cases are just built so well.

  26. My Corsair 7000D has excellent build quality. GamersNexus and others can confirm.

  27. Congratulations, you just destroyed the pump's bearings by letting it run dry too long...

  28. Thanks! Iโ€™ve used Mayhems Red Nano particules liquid and flushed everything with Mayhems cleaning kit.

  29. Opaque fluid? Won't that ruin blocks and pump quickly? Great build btw, looks awesome!

  30. Yes i did, and it fixed the big delta between gpu die temps and T Die. It was my first time doing it on an AMD gpu ๐Ÿ˜…

  31. I've said it before and I'll say it again, the 011d evo is the best case on the market for enthusiasts, if people don't like you for posting it, f' em!

  32. I keep my fittings in a (quality) ziploc bag. ๐Ÿ™ƒ

  33. Also, don't store your fittings in a jar like they are peanuts. The surfaces will get scratched.

  34. Should be ok with a bit higher delta but nothing out of control, especially if you will undervolt the 4080.

  35. Honestly, there's not much you can do in that tiny case. Also the poo-brown Noctua fans are an aesthetic problem, if you ask me. Why not get, e.g., a 5000D Airflow case? You will have fun moving your components and it will feel like a "new computer".

  36. Thanks everyone for the help. I re-seated the block and removed the backplate. Now it's inaudible with the case panels on it maybe 80 percent reduction in whine from before.

  37. Draining will be easy after you put a t-fitting plus ball-valve between front rad and flowmeter.

  38. Great idea. Just keep backup pump and blocks at the ready for when they are destroyed by random chemicals.

  39. your name sounds german, at least german speaking, try hardwareluxx forums. great source of knowledge

  40. Iยดve had red in use in different buidls in the Q6600 time until 3770k.

  41. I got myself six Corsair LL120 fans in 2019. After less than a year, the RGB in them started failing one after another. First the white turns greenish, then diodes fail, then the fan turns completely dark with an occasionally flickering diode.

  42. For the best solution you need to control your fans based on the water temperature. For this you need to know the water temperature, which can be measured with various fitting styles. A popular type is a pass-through fitting that screws into a rad G1/4" outlet, pump outlet, or wherever you want in your loop, and then a normal tubing fitting screws into that. You'll need a 2-pin temperature thermistor header either on your motherboard or via some controller like the ones from AquaComputer. If your mobo doesn't have temperature headers then some type of external controller with 2-pin temp headers is a must.

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